Installation Questions & Answers
Installation Questions & Answers|
Answer: Yes, as long
as the existing tile is bonded securely to the floor. There must be no
cracks or grout separation visible. All residues must be completely removed
and the tile surface must be sanded for the the new installation to bond
properly.
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Answer: We do not
recommend installing tile over existing vinyl because of the slick surface.
Vinyl does not provide a good bond with the thin set and can eventually
cause problems. The best procedure is to install a 1/4" cement tile backerboard
board over the existing vinyl floor for a superior installation. In some
cases it is needed to remove the existing underlayment and install 1/2"
cement board because of height problems when meeting up to hardwood floors.
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Answer: We do not
recommend installing tile over existing laminate because of the slick surface.
Laminate does not provide a good bond with the thin set and can eventually
cause problems. The best procedure is to install a 1/4" cement tile backerboard
board over the existing laminate or remove the laminate and prep the decks
for new tile. If there is particle board under the laminate then remove
the decking and install new 3/4" plywood.
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Answer: Yes, we use
a concrete backerboard. Using a 1/4" square-notched trowel, apply a setting
bed of latex-modified mortar to the subfloor or base. Immediately laminate
1/4" or 1/2" backerboard to subfloor base, leaving a 1/8" - 3/16" space
between boards at all joints and corners. Stagger joints so they do not
line up with underlying substrate joints. Fasten backerboard every 6" -
8" throughout board field and around all edges while setting bed mortar
is still workable.
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Answer: Curing time
for concrete is 28 days.
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Answer: Yes, as long
as the existing laminate is bonded securely to the surface and there are
no loose areas in the laminate. A light sanding and cleaning of the
laminate is usually all that is required. If the laminate is loose in areas,
it must be removed and the decking prepped for the new laminate.
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Answer: Yes, there
are two methods most commonly used. One is to float the floor with a concrete
product known as embossing leveler which fills all the voids and patterns
in the existing floor. The other is to sheet the floor with 1/4" structure
wood or multiply which are both made specifically for vinyl.
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Answer: No, vinyl
and resilient flooring are the same, they are different terms used to describe
the same type of flooring.
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Answer: Yes, vinyl
is a very durable product and is an excellent choice for high traffic areas
or in areas with moisture, such as bathrooms or laundry rooms.
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Answer: No, large
patterns do not make a room look smaller. In fact, they usually do just
the opposite and make the room appear larger. A light colored pattern will
also open up the room.
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Answer: Yes, the
first step of repairing a tear or hole in sheet vinyl is removing the damaged
area without scraping the perimeter of the cut for the seams. Once that's
done, the patch can be fit to match.
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Answer: Yes, Underlayment
grade panels for residential resilient floors must be 1/4" or heavier with
fully sanded face meeting CSA or FHA standards. Most commercial resilient
floors require a 3/8" or heavier panel of the same underlayment quality.
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Answer: No, there are several products now available so it is not necessary to remove the cutback. Webcrete 98 is a product that mixes with water and does not need an additive or primer even to do such tough jobs as covering old cutback adhesive residue. Warning: Some older resilient flooring may contain asbestos fibers. Do not try to remove or sand this type of flooring without having a trained asbestos inspector determine if asbestos is present. Resilient flooring with asbestos can be covered safely with plywood, or removed by a professional contractor. |
